25th November 2025 @ Blackstone Edge, 6B (6B+)

Saw Robert Gardiner’s video but done a tad differently by establishing more statically before going for the crack sloper. I do mess up the lunge for the break though! I’d done the top half many times (though never as badly!) but with this beta from the ground, it was probably the 3rd or 4th time I’d done it in the video.

One of the taller climbs, but with a very easy top half. Most of the difficulty for me is in pulling on in the correct position and making the first move.

I’d done a version of this a couple of years ago, but ended up using the left arete to establish. Whilst a reasonable climb, it wasn’t how the line was supposed to be climbed, at least at the advertised grade, as helpfully pointed out to me by Robin.

Since then, I had returned now and again to see if I could establish, but never could. This changed early in 2025 on a cold day where I did manage to establish on small holds as per the guide, but the hold I used for my left hand was a high pebble I could get two fingers on. At this time I considered the line ticked, but maybe with an asterisk.

I revisited the line in the Summer with a friend without as much reach as me, who couldn’t get that hold, and so was trying a much more obvious lower hold. That day, neither of us could establish, I guess because conditions were far from ideal (Blackstone Slab also felt impossible that day, a line I usually have few problems with these days). However, at that point I felt I aught to give it another go from that lower left hand.

Coming back in November I found I could establish using the lower left hold. However, it was a very friction dependant start – I found I had to get the right amount of chalk, particularly for the right hand, and for the right hand, which features a two finger dimple with a bit of a thumb, I had to almost pull in a gaston-like direction to get the most out of it. For the left foot, there was a kind of horseshoe like hold right at the bottom of the wall, which seemed to fit a big toe quite well. After pulling on as close to the wall as I could, the trick was to pull up as much as possible without falling off, and then quickly go for the crack/sloper. Quite a tricky move. I managed to send it that way on a November evening.

A toe/foot/heel hook is available on the right to help prevent any barn dooring (and some people may be able to establish with this already in place, which may well help with the margins on the starting hands). Once the crack/sloper is gained with a degree of stability, then the top isn’t particularly difficult, although I do manage a blunderous foot slip which I just about save in the video. I considered going again for the sake of the video, but the light was fading and I had other things to try. The dyno to the break in Robert’s video is a much more stylish way to do it!