30th November 2025 @ Stony Edge, 6B (6A+-6B+)

Beta seen in one or two videos on Vimeo before I attempted it, but not referenced at all and I remember little about them. The video shows the first time topping it out.

I’d avoided Flute Note up until now because of the block you could fall onto if you slipped up in the upper half. It’s difficult to know sometimes if you’re assessing the danger accurately, but when you’re on the moors on your own it’s better to be safe than sorry.

After refilming Gritworm and Jiggery Slopery, I looked over in this direction and thought it was time to at least give it a go. If it looked too sketchy then I could always move on. I quicky worked out a way to match on the upper shelf. After getting a bit spooked, I’d climb back down. I did this a few times until I felt comfortable enough to try another move. This was to a jug which felt good initially, but then I’d feel the scrittle move underneath my skin and my confidence would be shaken, feeling like I would slip off. I’d then climb back down.

Scrittle – loose grains of grit – can be a bit of a feature of climbing at Stony, which doesn’t see the same traffic other crags do because of the long walk-in. I went to the top of the boulder with the idea of giving the holds a brush, but didn’t feel confident accessing the holds and brushing them, so I went back down and continued to climb up until I felt like I could do another move.

Either I got over some fear, or the scrittle cleaned up a little with my repeated attempts, but I eventually felt confident enough to make another move, to a sloper with the left hand. I realised from this position I’d have to bring my left foot up high, but again got spooked, so climbed down. By this time, I’d decided to climb from a sitting position. A sit start is not indicated in the guide, but sometimes an obvious one’s there, and I liked the moves it added for this. Anyway, I decided to get the camera out, and realised that the light was working really well with the scenery. I don’t know if this influenced me or not – the shots are good so let’s send it – but the next attempt was the one seen in the video.

This has a range of grade votes on UKC, and I wonder if the scrittle has anything to do with it? I could get on board with 6A+ if the top out holds didn’t shed so much grit. They did feel more secure as I clocked up attempts. The sit moves were a fun addition, and perhaps it might nudge the grade closer to 6B dor those who feel it’s a bit soft.