30th March 2025 @ Stony Edge, 6C+ (6C)

No beta. The video is of my first send of the problem from sitting.

This one puzzled me for as long as I’d gone to Stony Edge. The slopey pinches look like they should be easy to hold, but I found them quite difficult, and finding the right body position is cruicial for me. However, once I’ve got them, the move right to the lip jug is pretty easy for me. I suspect there may be more moves to be done for the less reachy, but I’ve also frequently assessed beta to potentially be difficult for shorter people and been shown to be wrong, so don’t take my word for it! Overall, not a bad problem. My only complaint is how long my feet spend low down dodging reeds. A bit of gardening is sometimes necessary.

I liked the final move a fair bit, to the point where I tried to do it from further left – using the crack and the side pull to try to dyno to it. However, there’s very little to pull in on. I think I did touch the finishing jug a few times like this, but I was nowhere near holding on. It might be worth a go for climbers who enjoy the odd competition move though.