10th December 2025 @ Blackstone Edge, 7A+

Beta seen before from John Wilson’s video, and followed fairly closely. This was the second time I’d got up it, immediately following the first, where I made a meal of the upper section.

The low variant from undercuts.

This is another I’d paid visits to over the years, starting with “how can anyone hold onto this?” to “wow, maybe I can actually pull on to that” to eventually making actual attempts. The transition to making actual attempts occurred only because I’d seen John Wilson’s video of him sending it on youtube. Late in November I finally sent the higher start but could not figure out how to go from the undercuts. I was going left hand to dimple, and then trying to go right hand all the way to the top. It might be possible like this, and if you have a bigger span than me, it might even make the problem much easier that way. It was only when I hunted out the video again that I saw the heel-toe. So at the next opportunity, I went back and got it.

It probably took upwards of 10 attempts that session, each time managing to attempt the jump but for some reason failing to latch the top of the block. I think this was a mixture of things – not holding the dimple securely enough, having my right foot too much “in” to the wall, or chiseling with the right hand when it was actually working better with a three finger drag. Eventually it all came together, and I think I repeated it a second time after that, as on the first one, my footwork for the top section went a bit awry.

This is how the beta is in my head:

Where the footledge juts out, choose the foothold that’s lower down for the left foot, as this will give space for the right foot in the correct spot later, and also makes holding the undercling position easier. Choose the undercuts by feel, they’re good a bit further apart than expected. Get the heel toe with the right foot – a bit further in than you’re anticipating. Feel your weight held into the wall by the heel toe and initiate the left hand move with a bit of momentum into the wall. Latch the dimple with the index finger, and the middle finger half-stacked onto the back of it. This fits the dimple well. Once latched, make sure this feels pretty solid, as it’s crucial when catching the top of the block. Next, move the right hand into place. This can be done at a more leisurely pace, as the heel/toe can be used to keep from falling out. However, this needs to be a solid placement. Three finger drag. Once it’s on pull down into it. This involves a small crouch to allow the right shoulder to get involved in the pull. While keeping constant even pressure on the hand holds, release the heel toe and place the right foot as far out on the footledge as it’s possible to be comfortable with. Drop that right knee, and bring the left foot up to the foot ledge and out to the left. Do not hang about – jump as soon as you are ready. Remember, the left hand dimple needs to be solid for you to make the catch. You caught it! Feet on the rock for a bit of friction, and get the left toe into one of the carved letters. Rock onto it, match the top, and stand up. The top is slopey, but stepping up onto the right hold you had the drag on brings the top up to around waist height. Flip the right hand, and put your weight over the top. Feet up and done.

Up there with the hardest technical moves I’ve done up there so far.