12th April 2025 @ Blackstone Edge, 6C+ (6C)

Saw a video on Instagram, but not referenced to do the climb. Sadly Instagram’s search functionality is not particularly amenable to hunting for climbs, and I’m unable to find it for now. The video shows my first send of the problem.

I don’t think I had climbed anything on The Anvil up until this day. I did Lungefish, a 5+ which follows the same line as this. I managed to get to the top hold fairly easily, but the mantel was another thing. I really struggled with it, and it took me a few confidence building attempts, going up and coming back down before I could give the mantel good goes. Eventually I got it, and decided to try the dyno.

I was going from my left hand on a crimpy hold on the face but was struggling to send my weight into the rock. I think these were the 6C+ holds. When I read in the guide about using different holds (the guide suggests 7A for using these holds), I ended up switching to the ones seen in the video. This made it easier to send my weight in, and I was hitting the sloper pretty well early on. It just took a little bit of confidence to try to stick it with some conviction. I didn’t really understand why it would get 7A with these holds, particularly as I found it easier, but it may just be my body type, or I used the wrong holds. There’s no sign of the 7A variant on UKC, so I’ve listed the grade as though that variant doesn’t exist, I think that was the fairest option.

Once that’s done, it’s essentially the same top as Lungefish. It’s a fun one, especially if you like a dyno.